...I say to Stella at dawn in the Madrid airport because I'm so tired that I'm nauseous and sweating.
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| Bianca's dream home |
Sunday: I have another chocolate breakfast. Dafne takes me and Stella on a walk to another nearby village while her parents and Luís pack up and close the house.
Dafne is just like her parents in that she's a perfect guide, full of fascinating information about the area. She shows us the house I want to live in forever- it's built into the ground to look like a cresting wave of grass. One side and the roof is grass and the opposite side is all windows. It's got gardens, a guest house and stables and a corral which means when I move in, I'll be able to have horses!
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| Dungeon door |
Before we head to Madrid, Dafne shows us their dungeon. Their house is actually a mill from the 15th century and it still contains all the ancient hardware which extends down into the cellar. Of course, I fall in love with the dungeon.
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| Inner dungeon |
As we drive out of Sigüenza, we have to stop for the Easter procession as the town carries a resurrected Christ in reverence. No pictures, but I'm really happy we got to see the end of the story.
The family drops Stella and me off at the Prado so we can squeeze in some art before we have to leave tomorrow. It's amazing, because world renowned art is, particularly Goya's Black Period and the Rubens. However, I don’t know if its because its Easter, but it seems like every other work of art is a crucifixion. Thank God Jesus had resurrection talents.
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| Stella waits for me outside the Prado |
I also notice a lot of torture and killing of women. I have an “Aha!” moment when I see maybe the fifteenth Adam & Eve representation, and I burst out to Stella, “That’s why men hate women! Because they blame us for everything bad because of Adam and Eve!” Stella’s reply was along the lines of, “Yeah. Duh…” I continue: “But I bet they made it all up because they were scared and jealous of what women could do with their bodies, so they had to minimize us to try and control us!” This earns another, “Yeah, duh.” type confirmation from Stella.
I don’t know why I’m surprised. Or why this finally hits home right now. I’m not a total moron, I’ve been a living female for over forty one years - and by the way, my dislike of writing my age in print makes me want to vomit, thanks society, thanks Patriarchy, and fuck you both - but lately I feel like I’m seeing the world for the first time. So I guess I’m woke…? Which is also a phrase that makes me want to puke, less because of the millennial-ness of it all and more because I’m privileged enough to have been sleeping in denial, complacency, and ignorance. Which reminds me, I haven’t had my Lexapro today.
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| A breath-taking sculpture of mother & child by Maria |
All my wokeness, plus the holiday crowds and being exhausted means we leave the Prado early to walk back to Maria & Will's flat. The city is much busier than I thought it would be on Easter. I'd imagined Madrid would be completely shut down in recognition of the holiday, but I couldn't have been more wrong. Because they also observe Easter Monday, Easter Sunday in the city feels like a big party.
We make it to Will & Maria's flat without getting lost once, and I fall in love. I love Maria's taste and their home is my dream. What's incredible about spending time with Will, Maria and Dafne is they are a family of artists. Not only actors and Director's, but artists. Art is their life and it's expressed in how they live their lives, as well. It feels like home to be in an environment that values the things I value most in my life: reading, discovery, expression, creativity, beauty, space.
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| Finally, paella! |
Maria has arranged a flamenco show for dinner so we take a quick tour around their neighborhood on the way to the restaurant. Stella and I linger before a closed shoe shop with windows full of beautiful espadrilles. Maria casually mentions that store makes the best espadrilles in the country and it’s too bad we fly out before they open tomorrow. Stella and I agree. If we didn't have a good reason to return to Madrid, we have the perfect one now. We love a good espadrille.
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| Nefi & Nefi-colored nails |
In two different spots on our way to dinner, I step into a plaza and it feels so familiar. Then I find a landmark and each time realize I stood in the exact spot 18 years ago on my first trip to Europe. My recall sucks, but it's nice to know Spain burned itself into my soul enough for my body to remember until my brain catches up.
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| Nefi kisses. I win. |
Now, flamenco. I bow to flamenco. I saw it years ago, but I've never seen it like this. I take no pictures. Every step, every snap echoes in my synapses and jams my mind so I can't do anything but feel these dancers pound out their individual rhythms and ride the Spanish guitar. I insist you fly to Madrid and go to Las Carboneras to experience God for yourself. Until then, here's a YouTube video- especially after 1:45 watch and have your mind blown.
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| Spain Starbucks ftw |
Maria says the best time to experience flamenco is after the restaurants and shows close when all the musicians and dancers meet at an after hours bar to jam together. Right then, I promise myself that we really will be back and we’ll be there.
Nefi finally sleeps with me - and not only because I locked her in with me - and give me cuddles. We only get a few hours of sleep before we have to leave Will and Maria’s for the airport. Once we check in (again, WE ARE SO EARLY), the fatigue hits and I can’t wait to get London-home.
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| Creek POV of the dungeon... |
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When I move to Spain, I definitely want a wall & door combo. They're my favorite. |
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| Stella strolls past Lady Art |
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| I love her. |
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