"We want nombre Americano and nombre Spanish..."

...the spokesman for three college-aged American guys explained to the Vodafone customer service guy, mistaking the word "nombre" for "numero"- I mean, they were trying, so I don't want to be ugly. 

Good morning!

Tuesday, 7a, Day 1

I wake up from a dead sleep to my alarm. Why did I set an alarm??

A stay with Paula includes breakfast which is a lifesaver. Yesterday I only ate airplane scone and snacks, my rowmate's kosher fruit, and the three homemade brownies Paula left for me as a welcome, so I am READY to eat when I wake up. Paula takes breakfast very seriously. "It's very personal to me," says Paula. 

I am down with Paula's personal: toast/butter/jam, scones, another brownie, juice and coffee. Good coffee. Bianca On Holiday With Grinding Teeth Coffee. Paula and I visit as I eat, and I'm more enthralled with her every minute. 

A letter here reads: Love and compassion is
what moves the world. Whatever religion you
embrace, I love and respect you. ~Rosa

I head to Las Ramblas because I need to do something about my phone and my jet lag. As I ascend from the metro, my stomach drops- there is a large shrine to the victims of the recent terrorist attack. Burning candles, teddy bears, flowers, and notes pile around the lantern at the top of the promenade. I had asked Paula if everyone she knew was safe from the attack the night before (yes, they were), but it never occurred to me that I’d see any evidence. The sight of candles still burning after almost three weeks and people leaving fresh notes of love, peace, non-violence and solidarity fills me with awe and hope.

After I square away my SIM card confusion with Vodafone and finally leave a voicemail for my mom (PS my SIM card gives me a Spain phone number, so any calls to my 323 number go to voicemail. If you need me, use What's App, Facebook, or email), I do a Las Ramblas and a Barri Góthic (Gothic Quarter) self-guided walking tour from my Rick Steves book. I love these tours. Some highlights and impressions:

Nuts, candy, meat, and olives (oh my!) at La Boqueria

• Las Ramblas is crowded, touristy and smells like BO. I also smell after not having the energy to shower last night or this morning (I am a Grease Piglet, no selfies today!), so I fit right in.

• Barcelona has these gorgeous fountains all over the city that save my life. It’s fantastic to drink free water to my heart’s content. If you come at me with “but do you even know what’s in that water?!” I don’t want to hear it. It tastes good and it’s free.

• La Boqueria Market is stunning. So much to eat! So many strong smells! I return at the end of the day to buy a fruit salad that, sadly, ends up being half cantaloupe. Cantaloupe exists to give me something to throw away.

• Gargoyles! So many gargoyles! They make me haaaaappyyyy...

This is the only vegetable I've eaten in at least two days

• Els Quatre Gats (The Four Cats) has a radical facade and housed Picasso’s first one-man show, as he was a regular barfly here. Good enough for Picasso is good enough for me, and I have a snack of pimientos de Padrón (like blistered Serrano peppers)

• The Church Sant Felip Neri has shrapnel damage from the Spanish Civil War, and if you’ve read my blog or ever talked to me about Europe, you know what a fan I am of bullet pockmarks and war damage.
• Double dose of Gaudí with the Palau Güell and helmeted lampposts in Plaça Reial. 

• My glass of wine at lunch kills my architectural fervor and I skip most of the gothic tour to wander the streets. I find Stella’s (soon-to-be) Favorite Street, Carrer dels Banys Nous, a quaint winding way lined with cute shops and the occasional cafe. Watch, I bet I’m right.

Fun with fountains!