Sunday, October 7, 2012

"It's the best thing in the world isn't it?"

... said a stranger to me about my iPad (and her iPad which she was also on) at the bus station in Melbourne. And then iPads notwithstanding, we actually talked like people without devices which was a beautiful surprise.

Melbourne, Day 3 - (pretend this is four days ago)
Travel is SO important! Yes! I proclaim, and agree, with enthusiasm every time I have this conversation in my life, but especially in the 5 times it's come up in the past 24 hrs. I think the Universe was front loading the travel cheerleading so I wouldn't try to lay down in traffic out of frustration and exhaustion once I returned to Sydney- because I AM THAT exhausted and frustrated.

yeah, thanks for nothing horse
It wasn't even that bad-- but there are certain things that push my buttons, and many of them happened today, not least of which was the loudest child I've ever heard not get to ride the magical child masturbation ride - you know, those plastic poly-something horses you can ride for a minute?- they had at the tiny Avalon Airport (which is different than the regular, larger Melbourne Airport Teeluride-- if you're flying into or out of Melbourne, please figure this out faster than I did). This kid not only made me never want to have children ever, it made me want to talk my friends out of having any more. It was the worst creature ever conceived.
choc flavoured centre w
cruchy biscuit pieces encased
in thick caramel, all covered
in cadbury milk chocolate
Military time mix ups that ate hours of my last day in Melbourne (my fault), flight delays (I'm blaming that hideous loud child because I can), bad food choices (meat pie? Why do I do this to myself? Why??? Ugh.) and more bad food choices (candy bar to kill the memory of the meat pie) all wrapped in the bow of being elbowed at alternate intervals during my flight back to Sydney by a Japanese teenager with bad breath and an Indian woman who made me climb over her (a culture thing? I TRIED to be pleasant but not so much) made a should-have-been-easy travel day into another monster entirely.

God I hate traveling.

But it's SO IMPORTANT.

And here's where I, at long last, have a point. Yesterday, I returned to the hostel and finally got down with the whole hostel-ness of it all, all of 12 hours before I was to check out. It was a moment that saw me and my three dormmates all together in our room, all awake at the same time. With me was Michelle from Night 1 (the middle-aged alarmist with 2 grown children, who may or may not have passed me her gross cold), Anna, the cute Aussie girl who stole my bed 2 nights ago (and never returned it, and it also turns out she is German?? In the dark they all sound the same... ), and Anna-mean (certainly not the way you spell her name, just the way I spell her name) a med student from Holland who had just moved in. We had a discussion you ONLY have in a hostel ONLY because of the opportunity you get living with multi-generational strangers from different countries. I won't bore you with specifics other than to say it was very special and should have taken 30 minutes less than it did except that Michelle is a repeater. But I wouldn't trade a minute of it.

After our room meeting, I treated Anna-mean to nice wine down the street and she treated me, again, to those great conversations you only get when you travel. Different backgrounds, different perspectives, different beliefs and yet we still can share life experiences like love, learning, and wine.

A friend called me brave and adventurous for traveling the way I do, and I shirked it off because I'm too shy to talk to most people, therefore I see myself as neither. However, after all the TRAVEL IS SO IMPORTANT conversations over the last day, I can tell you I'm pretty wrong. The common denominator of those conversations came down to this: a traveler is brave, adventurous, and, more important than those qualities, open-minded. Not just about having new experiences but, even simpler, about getting out of the house.

Every travel conversation I had touched on how little the US values it compared to other countries. I'm lucky enough to have a father who is a dreamer and a traveller and a mother who is boldly open-minded and values squeezing all you can from life, and even with that background I had to be pushed into my first international traveling experience when I was 20 years old. At 20, I was safe and comfortable in my little Texas bubble. I was more interested in not missing out on what my friends were doing than I was in seeing/eating/feeling things I had never seen/eaten/felt before. Travel was work, it was expensive-- and I didn't discover til I was forced to: totally worth every penny and glisten of sweat (and even every screeching strange child-monster). It's only now that I realize that first trip at 20 saved my life- or maybe more correct to say, the trip created my life.

Travel tests you, teaches you, inspires you, enlightens you, and after all that, it makes you value yourself and where you're from. For my part, I'm going to shove my kid out the door the first chance I get (especially if its anything like that horrible loud beast of a kid from the airport.)

Here are some randoms from my last 24 Melbourne hours...

genius Aussie ads
more trust from the Aussies
 

**More from the "why
Australia is better" file: I love how they give you the gambling and they give you the warning and then trust you to make the best decision for yourself. Another example of "here ya go. If you're not an asshole, you'll be just fine..."








Some choice shots from my last morning in Melbourne at the Royal Botanic Gardens (aka "the Tan")...

at the Shrine of Rememberance: the WWII memorial

awesome Muppet tree

i love flowers

early morning sun over the lake

i'll take a flowering bush any day
i thought this said "Talking to plants it illegal" & I thought they were joking

rugged pretties

reminded me of red velvet cupcakes

like play-doh monsters but with HARD SHARP THORNS
teehee, hello prickly little penis cacti
 


last morning in my Black Cat happy place

Thursday, October 4, 2012

"I think I might need ointment for this??"

... I said to the person manning reception at the hostel about the spot of ebola I found on my cheek which I believe to be directly caused by sleeping in a hostel bed. They didn't have any. But anyway...

Melbourne, Day 2--
The Queen Victoria market was only open today of all the days I'm in town, so that's my first stop.

With no Geo for the last day, I've gotten more used to thinking, and I don't really get lost any longer. Except for one quick 10-minute period, post-Black Cat in a caffeine and writing haze- Oh, and another 10-minute episode, post another-pub-and-writing stint. But that's all. Twenty minutes today is a far improvement over 2 collective hours yesterday.

It's a quick trip to the open air market because I hate shopping. But I do love fruit, so I happily eat my new organic apples and mango and keep walking past the fake Italian handbags and stuffed boxing kangaroos. 
back to Black Cat (damn you, awesome latte)
After the market its back to Black Cat again. I feel home as I walk in -- I'm so in love with this place, I can hardly keep from making out with the waitress when she offers to toast and butter my banana bread.

I do my time here and tram it back to St Kilga to browse Acland street-- recommended by my good friends Chelsea Bruland and NBFFHJ (new-best-friend-forever-Hugh-Jackman). I find another great pub to finish my daily writing and then wander. I detour to the beach for sunset because, why not? It's all fine and beachy but nothing near the visual orgasms I had with Sydney's beaches (turns out Melbourne's body of water is a bay, not the ocean, so blah, blah, explanation, blah). Still, sunsets mean pictures, so I walk out on a small pier to try and get some pretty angles.
example of Australia's circle of trust
Plenty of things in Australia are BIG- not this pier. It starts small and then gets thin, and then decides railing is no longer necessary. One of my absolute favorite things about Australia is the trust. I imagine they figure: Railing, schmailing, just don't be an asshole and you'll stay dry.

Before I leave St. Kilga, I want to find another place NBFFHJ suggested- I'm particularly interested in this place because he was particularly all Oooooo! and animated about it being a friendly place where I could possibly find my Australian baby's daddy.

Now, I haven't eaten all day because I made the HUGE & DELICIOUS mistake of having a latte at Black Cat. (Caffeine freaks me out so much that I become a batshit mental mess. I lose anything that looks like an appetite and I'm awake for 2 days. It's the best and worst diet ever.) Once I finally find the bar, I start my defense against impending insomnia in the form of wine, and I realize if I want to make it home without throwing up that food is also necessary. I will do anything to avoid insomnia in a hostel -- it's bad enough when you're supposed to be awake.

It's at this bar that I realize how it is I'm still single (because this is an annoying question I get annoyingly asked annoyingly a lot). And let's see if you can also figure out why by the clues in this story:

I walk up to the bar. I order wine and mussels from the bartender. I aim for a table in the corner until even I realize how anti-social that is, plus the couple next to me has a baby and I'm not in the mood. I sit and I write the beginning of this post on my iPhone. My food arrives and it's a whole lotta shell but not a whole lotta mussel. This makes it very important for me to not let any mussel remain closed- a handful are being demure. I wrestle them open and rip out their insides. I dip my chips in the white wine sauce. I lick my fingers for a long time before I realize there are paper napkins within reach. I realize how messy I've become and how much I'm going to smell like garlic and stale dirty-girl for the rest of the night and I crack myself up into epiphany. And realize how I'm still single...

Oh, so many messy and beautiful errors in judgement. But really by choice, man. Definitely by choice.
mussels, party of 1
this bench in Fitzroy makes me happy :)

for Angie: see, you should come here!

word
Fitzroy street art



one of my favs, Fitzroy
 


 


St. Kilda sunset, Melbourne in the distance

Wednesday, October 3, 2012

"We don't much do salads here."

double chorizo dog
kangaroo steak & chips
...said the curmudgeon behind the bar. But I digress. Check out the pics below, my internet at the hostel was too crappy to download them all.

Behold,
Melbourne Day 1:

writing at Black Cat, my happiest place in Melbourne
top of Hosier Lane

Hosier Lane
Hosier Lane

Hosier Lane

Hosier Lane

Hosier Lane

Hosier Lane
Hosier Lane

Hosier Lane

Hosier Lane

Hosier Lane

a confrontation off Hosier Lane

passage off Hosier Lane

stolen moment at the dumpsters off Hosier Lane

bottom of Hosier Lane

Union Lane

where nightmares come from, Union Lane

Frank goes Horns Up, Union Lane

Union Lane

i saw that masked guy a few places, Union Lane

bottom of Union Lane

Union Lane

 

Tuesday, October 2, 2012

"Is this going to kill me?"


...is what I asked my waitress about the double chorizo dog I was ordering at this great bar in Melbourne. She said yes, probably. I love her. But lemme back up.

Saturday, in the interest of time I’ll assure I had a fantastic day with Stella running around town. Our lives are glamourous because we are super hot and I’ll leave it at that.

Sunday, after hemming and hawing and stressing and drinking, I made my plane to Melbourne just in the nick of time. YES, I reeeally wanted to see Melbourne. No, I reeeally didn’t want to do anything else involved like pack, fly, arrange, or think. I was so stressed Stella made me drink a lot. (That’s a lie.) But it did help get me on the plane, despite running half an hour late and almost sleeping past my airport stop on the train.

I got to Melbourne and guess who’s also vacationing here! Geo! Everytime I try to ask him directions, he gives me the finger and dives into another pint of cider. He’ll give me walking directions, but no public transport, so I’ve returned to using geographic pieces of paper, my brain, and a little common sense. I have very little common sense, so I’m often lost and always on the wrong tram.
In Melbourne, they use a very cool tram system to get you around the main parts of the city. I’m not only intensly directionally challenged but also an idiot who will stand on the side of the road no one else is standing on, CERTAIN I’m right and 28 other people are wrong, and SO CERTAIN I don’t even need to ask anyone for help—even though chances are they’ve probably ridden that route more often than I have, because its my very first time. But this is how I learn. In the hardest and most inconvenient, time-consuming way.

Anyway, after an hour in the cold—did I mention it’s cold in Melbourne? Because it is. COLD. It’s cooooold in Melbourne. Melbourne is south of Sydney so I imagined sundresses and bikini tops—but I’m on the wrong hemisphere for my thinking to work, so my sundresses and bikinis are playing hangman inside Stella’s guest closet as I wear borrowed gloves, hats, and jackets. I have tights on under my jeans. Yesterday I wore 4 layers on top. It’s cold. It’s like 4 right now. Because I know enough Celcius now to fake it. The high today was 12. Impressed, yet?

Anyway, after an hour in the cold I made it to my hostel. That’s another reason I almost accidentally on purpose missed my flight- my hostel. I used to be queen of the hostels, but my  last experience in Costa Rica 5 years ago, and the fact that I’m in my thirties, sort of turned me off to ever hostelling again. But I’m officially unemployed, and I can’t justify paying for a place I will only sleep, so the hostel it is. I got creative about the prospect—"I’m writing a story about teenagers! I should hang out with some! Omg, at the hostel!"

I check in and meet my first roommate—Michelle, 50, mother of 2, also a writer when she’s not doing her day job. So much for the teenage experience. Unless, that’s all life is, is one ongoing teenage experience because the soul knows no age… (And then Bianca pounds a Four Loko and stares out the window for 4 days, scared of the truth... clearly, I’m tired. Excuse my lazy filter.) As I’m make-upping to go out on my own, Michelle tells me all about the missing woman who is most certainly murdered who has rocked Melbourne because things like this just don’t happen here. Or didn’t use to.

I’m keyed up walking to dinner – the place was less than half a km away, relax Stella and parents – ready to fight off every monster, rapist, and murderer who has ever existed. I make it to my restaurant, this fantastic place called the Waiting Room in the lobby of The Crown Hotel. I order the homemade double chorizo dog because life is short and I’m now convinced I’ll be murdered sometime soon. I loved The Waiting Room and the chorizo dog, though I did have to mouth-breathe my way to sleep later that night when the memory of my fantastic dinner started making me feel fantastically sick. Small price to pay for living like there’s no tomorrow.

DAY 1 - Today I took advantage of the free breakfast the hostel offers every day. I just made it as they were about to shut down (like all the other teenagers, I slept in) and carbo-loaded. So much for my careful wheat-free diet that I adhere to like velcro unless I’m with Stella in front of a pizza.

On a good day it can take me multiple hours to leave my own house because I am given to following any distraction. If it’s shiny, sparkly, bloody or fun to dance to, tack an extra 10 minutes to my morning. If I’m not in my own space, forgettaboutit, I could be there all day. Today I went from –

...and I just turned down 2 teenage Spainiards' invitation to drink in their dorm room. I’m sorry! I can’t! I have no personality and will never have any good stories because I live in front of a computer screen and I’M OLD. But really, I already brushed my teeth. I suck.

(All day I’ve been drinking wine by myself, ready to entertain the people Hugh Jackman swore would approach me because I’m so pretty and they’re so friendly. It didn’t happen. Why couldn’t the 2 Spanish teenagers from the hostel be 20 years older at a wine bar?? Dammitt, I can’t have nice things!)

Anyway, today I made it from pillow to outside in an hour and a half which is amazing. And then I came back THREE times after walking all the way down the street because I forgot this, that and the other. Sigh. Nice to know I'm still me.
I finally made it to Fitzroy, a part of town my friend Chelsea used to live in and had recommended to me. I was looking for a cool, comfy coffee place where I could do my writjng for the day—I’d researched coffee bars for an hour the night before night. After ambling around the graffiti speckled, gorgeous streets of Fitzroy, I found the most perfect place in the world. Old cool couches, small plates, coffee, tea, beer, and wi-fi, plus a dj spinning incredible music through out the day. The Black Cat. Crazy in love with it, cant imagine not returning to write there every day so I probably will…

After writing, I stopped by another Chelsea Pick—Napier Hotel, an old fashioned pub that she recommended for Kangaroo. Yes, kangaroo. We’d been talking on the Wolverine set about eating kangaroo and how, as Americans, it feels kind of wrong—we’d be eating the country’s mascot. That’s like people eating bald eagles. I think the problem goes deeper than that—it goes Winnie the Pooh deep. Because Kanga was such a soft gentle mother to Roo, as since most of us identified with Roo when we were read Winnie the Pooh because we were also babies – that is how it was for me anyway, eating Kangaroo is like eating your mother. Gross.

But I did it. I didn’t feel altogether awesome about it either. I feel like doing a penance or apologizing to someone for what I did. The meat wasn’t bad though.

After, I headed to the city center to see some of the lesser known laneways – tiny not-quite-streets that exist between larger streets – before sunset. Some of these are known for their street art and that’s what I was after. After going half an hour out of my way on the tram because I wasn’t paying attention, I made it to only a handful of laneways and allys before it got too dark to see anything. But wowza, the stuff I did see was incredible! —I took a ton of pics.

After I headed down to Melbourne's beach suburb of  St. Kilga- it’s home to many of the recommendations I got for a nice glass of wine from Hugh (Jackman? You might have heard of him. I’m being obnoxious.) Because I’m a jerk, I got off the tram too early – whyyyy do I follow the herd? It’s so boring!-  and got a little lost.

More wine, more food, more writing to keep from feeling quite so ALONE OUT BY MYSELF. Don’t cry for me, I’m a good writer, and I entertained myself just fine.

I came back to the hostel to a dark room of sleeping roommates. I wrote this blog in the library until my computer battery ran out – yes charger, no adapter, grrr – and went to bed. Tried, actually.

As I put my butt on my bunk – lower bunk, natch—in the pitch black, my comforter spoke to me, “Youre trying to get in my bed”

“Excuse me?”

The cute Australian girl and I figured out she had, in fact, taken over MY bed even though my shoes were under it, even though my scarf was on top of it, even though all my crap was in the locker assigned to it. I conceded and took the only remaining bed – top bunk over sleeping Michelle with dirty kleenex strewn all over the floor around it. I guess she has a cold. Awesome.

Did I still want my bed back after Cute Aussie Girl had gotten all up in it? No. But I was still incredibly annoyed. Annoyed enough not to feel bad when I made enough noise to wake a coma victim this morning as she slept in. You stay in a hostel, you get what you get. Sorry, cute girl.

Hi chilly Melbourne!


Fitzroy street art


Fitzroy street art


Fitzroy street art


Fitzroy street art